“As you understand, Thom likes to inform a narrative… It is going to be a protracted story — and you understand he loooves his lengthy tales…”
That is what Gwendoline Christie, wearing a duchess silk satin embroidered dressing robe, informed the viewers gathered on the Grand Palais for Thom Browne’s Spring 2023 present Monday. Besides, on the runway, she was “Charming,” and she or he was setting the stage for the famously theatrical designer’s rendition of a basic story: that of Cinderella. (The seven-foot glowing “glass” heel on the finish of the runway ought to’ve been a giveaway.)
The gathering opens with a collection of silk taffeta opera coats in an array of colours, every bearing a varsity quantity throughout the again. Then, we meet our “Cindy”: Emmy-nominated actor Michaela Jaé Rodriguez, sporting white.
Over the course of the present, we additionally noticed her stepmother and stepsisters (in half-draped silk taffeta polka-dot clothes and punky hair), their cat (in a satin mini skirt and duchess jacket with yarn-ball embroidery), the mice (in off-the-shoulder, bow-decked mini clothes), the fairy godmother and her entourage (in hand-knit jackets and pleated poodle skirts).
Like the entire model’s work, Thom Browne’s model of this fairy story is rooted in sharp tailoring and precision, juxtaposed with imaginative particulars and a playfulness that elevates clothes into storytelling. The Spring 2023 appears to be like are actually and figuratively layered: The extra you stare, the extra you uncover — like how underwear peeks out from the trousers within the again or how some fashions had been sporting smocked tulle bodysuits beneath.
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However again to the story! Cindy, in a gold-embroidered opera coat with navy satin tails, dances her manner up the runway to Charming, earlier than stepping inside the enormous shoe. There, she transforms “into probably the most true model of herself,” the model explains within the present notes: sporting a cropped white shirt, gray trousers and Thom Browne-branded underwear.
And off she goes, in a pink tulle Cadillac carriage, as the remainder of the characters dance collectively, and as Christie’s Charming reminds us: “In Thom Browne’s world, all women and all boys match contained in the shoe.”
See the total Thom Browne Spring 2023 assortment within the gallery under.
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